Giuseppe Virgone, Un Animal Devra Mourir
Giuseppe Virgone presented his rich menswear collection to a transfixed audience at RA on November 14th, 2009. The shredded, dissected collection blended futurist neoprene, mesh and metallic fabrications with organic, luxurious knits and technical wools. garments hung off the body, long and loose, both exposing and concealing the masculine form - with embellishments of bugle beading, sequins and heavy crystal. Splicing and dissection reminiscent of cell structures, muscles and nerves was shown through unusual trouser panelling, longline jackets with draped, twisted and fanned constructions.
Performance by giuseppe virgone at ra november 14th 2009
A dark colour palette was shown in three stages, with blacks, greys and golds that accented the story of his tragic hero and muse, Yannick Kaprowski, who walked with his disciples on the tips of their toes, barely connected with the earth, only the weight of the garments holding them down. yannick appeared as a spirit form wearing various layered masks of brass, horn and feathers. the masks were designed by Guillaume Airiaud, who also constructed the pearly grey faux-marble façade, an eerie baroque environment for the collection. music was a synthesised, live composition by DJ Nemoi from Berlin, a sound designer and storyteller who wove together cassette tape threads to create ambient, droning electronica to hypnotise our audience. Giuseppe's show ended in a dramatic finale - a ritual of milk poured over yannick and an offering of water from his disciples.
"The body is a tragedy, a confrontation between life and death. The body is a weakness, unformed, and full of promises. My collection evokes the mortal fate of the man, an unconditional love for a beast and the misunderstanding of certain inequitable acts. I do not look for absolute. Just a happy medium between life and death, as if the body became the heart of the tragedy. the tragedy is not only a suffering, it is just here, imposing a new glance on the world. she created herself a personnal mental space. She frightens because her acts are unjustified. The tragedy as the man begins to elaborate movements in a nothingness, searching for an identity. from there, begins a conflict between cultures and man. The animal is in us, or around us, it is present in our movements and our thoughts.My work consists in betraying the essential, to remove any sensations of the matter, any feelings of touch. It doesn’t destroy her but makes her stronger, the substance becomes jewel. The concept is to immobilize a body in a mass, at once soft and hard, the jewel has the same sensation than plaster, making the body choke in a rigid shell. the silhouette is opposed to the forms, letting the matter fall. The collection is formal, luxurious, animal, heavy, precious." - Giuseppe Virgone
Photography by Martin Bing.